A taste of India in New York

By Emily Bobrow

Transplanting an Indian fine-dining restaurant from New Delhi to Manhattan is not easy. America’s salt is not as salty as India’s, apparently. The butter is different, too. But amid the challenges, there was one happy discovery: New Yorkers like spicy food. This means the recipes from the celebrated original Indian Accent can now be sampled, unadulterated, in New York’s newest subcontinental restaurant.

A chef’s true gifts are best measured by his way with humble ingredients. This is what makes the potato chaat so memorable. This starter transforms a classic Indian street snack into a sophisticated dance of textures and flavours. Finely shredded potato is fried into delicate crispy globes, served on a piquant bed of white-pea mash and topped with tangy yogurt, sweet tamarind and spicy chutney. A single spoonful balances the heat of the chutney with the cool of the yogurt, and fills the mouth with zest, sweetness and a satisfying crunch, leaving a tingly spiciness on the tongue. The effect is both novel and comforting.

Make sure the meal ends with the makhan malai, sweetened saffron milk dusted with almonds, sugar and rose petals.

indianaccent.com/newyork