Sorry, you need to enable JavaScript to visit this website.

India

Land of the gods

The craggy mountains and dramatic valleys of Ladakh are imbued with the prayers of everyone who passes through them. Isabella Tree savours a slow trek to the Stok Valley

Scents and sensuality

India once had, and has now lost, the greatest olfactory culture the world has ever known. William Dalrymple sniffs out the perfumiers trying to revive it