Where to eat in Stockholm

By Bruce Palling

Despite Copenhagen’s attempts to hog the glory, Stockholm was an active partner in the creation of New Nordic Cuisine, which emphasises foraged food and local seasonal ingredients. The movement marked a departure from traditional Swedish food such as meatballs and Surströmming (fermented Baltic sea herring). However, Stockholm has kept innovating and has increasingly fallen under the influence of another food culture – Japan.

This makes sense. Scandinavian seafood is excellent and abundant, which makes it perfect for eating raw. And both the Japanese and the Swedes have a way with fermentation. The trend started when two chefs, Björn Frantzén and Sayan Isaksson, spent time in Japan and brought home their knowledge. But it is percolating throughout the food scene – from the haute-cuisine restaurants to fashionable night spots such as Tak. There are excellent traditional Japanese restaurants in Stockholm, such as Sushi Sho and Shibumi, but the standout dining experiences are found in the places where Nordic meets Nippon.