Wanderland: a journey through Iran’s wild west

Nomads have been central to the country’s history for centuries. Anthony Sattin joins the roaming empire

By Anthony Sattin

This is a story about cities turned to dust, about an older, simpler way of life and about the pleasing surprises of travelling out of the way. It’s also about a man called Fereydun who used to herd animals but has settled down with his horse, planted an orchard of fruit trees and a small garden of vegetables and who told me I could put my feet in his eyes. Welcome to Iran’s wilder west.

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