Menswear

Luke Leitch celebrates the expanding grip of the elasticated waistband

Get leathered up for winter

Snug suits and turtlenecks for the brooding modern flâneur

Florence’s biannual Pitti Uomo trade fair has become a mecca for the world’s most extrovert dandies. Yet those responsible for creating the phenomenon are appalled by its success. Luke Leitch investigates a sartorial schism at the heart of menswear