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The craggy mountains and dramatic valleys of Ladakh are imbued with the prayers of everyone who passes through them. Isabella Tree savours a slow trek to the Stok Valley
Travelling on an Indian passport is a nightmare. But Leo Mirani, The Economist’s news editor, finds that it forces him to go where people are pleased to see him
India once had, and has now lost, the greatest olfactory culture the world has ever known. William Dalrymple sniffs out the perfumiers trying to revive it